Chances are that if you’re looking for a roofing contractor, you’ve got a leak and you’re not in a good mood. But look on the bright side – no one expects you to leap onto the roof, risking life and limb to remedy the problem (because the problem is not a tiny hole that can be sealed with a little duct tape). Job one is to stay inside and protect the interior – move furniture, get out that red bucket and grandma’s soup tureen – you know the drill. Job two: call a Done Right! roofing contractors before the “drip, drip, drip” drives you positively batty.

A roof that lasts is all about how it was installed. If it’s Done Right from the get-go, you shouldn’t need to worry about leaks for years to come. If not, patch jobs can slow the clock. So, here are the high hard ones for solving your “repair or replace” dilemma:

• A roof should last 15-25 years (varies based on material/climate). If your roof is relatively young, chances are you’re in the market for “fix-it.”
• Don’t assume the leak is originating from a popped out shingle or two. Metal flashing wears out before most roofs, so chances are flashing is the culprit.
• Do you have an attic? If so, it could be improperly ventilated and is “sweating”, or generating condensation. Drilling some holes in eaves, adding a layer of bitchethane (adhesive waterproofing material) are two options for remedying this common – and commonly missed – problem.
• Assess the quality of your shingles. If they break or crack when pressed, they’re history – but, can be easily replaced. In fact, just like driving with 20% worn brakes, a weathered roof can be just as effective. But once your roof dips below the 20-25% of remaining-life mark, a new one is the smart choice.

Before the Project

There are several factors to consider when you’re in the market for a new roof:

• What types of elements will your roof be subjected to? Hail, high-heat, wind, fire?
• What type of roofing materials do you prefer? What looks good?
• What type of warranty are you looking for?
• What’s your budget?

While these seem like different issues, they’re all closely related when it comes to replacing your roof. The elements your roof is subjected to dictate the type of roofing materials that are best. But, of course, your budget comes into play too. Then there’s how it all looks. And, how long you’ll be in the house. The roof decision is hardly a no-brainer. So, grab some coffee and read on.

The Big Picture on Materials. Where roofing materials are concerned, the three common criteria used to decide what you need are impact, wind and fire resistance (similar, but not to be confused with the 70′s R&B legends Earth, Wind and Fire). Depending on the location of your home, or any special requirements, knowing a little about all three will help you choose the right roofing materials:

• Impact Resistance – Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) designed a testing standard to evaluate impact resistance of roofing material against hazards like hail. Materials tested using the UL scale receive a Class 1, 2, 3 or 4 impact-resistance rating. Class 4 provides the greatest impact resistance and is the class of choice anywhere hail is compared to fruit or balls used in sports.
• Wind Resistance – Extreme winds can cause damage to your roof, bending asphalt shingles or completely blowing wood or asphalt shingles off. Once that happens water can penetrate, catapulting the problem from bad to worse. But where wind is concerned it’s more than just the material that matters. It’s how the materials are fastened. For example, the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturer Association (ARMA) recommends using nails instead of staples when securing asphalt roofing for maximum durability in wind. In addition, hammers are preferred over nail guns, as they tend to give the nail a snugger fit. There are similar guidelines for shingles and even tile. A good roofer will know them.
• Fire Resistance – Fire rating is of particular concern if your home is located in a rustic setting near lots of brush or trees (known in the fire trade as fuel). Roofing materials are fire rated as follows:

1. Class A: Effective against severe fire exposure
2. Class B: Effective against moderate fire exposure
3. Class C: Effective against light fire exposure
4. Non-rated: The roofing material either was not tested or failed one of the tests

Your local building authority may require that a certain class of material be used in your area, so make sure your contractor checks before work begins.

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Done Right Tip: In areas where fires are a concern, insurance companies most often offer discounts for choosing a higher rated material. So, making a more expensive choice today may actually be cheaper in the long run.

Types of Roofing Materials. The type of roofing materials you use will depend upon many different factors, including budget, aesthetics, municipal codes and your home’s construction. A brief tour of the most common materials follows:

• Asphalt Composition Shingles – Inexpensive and long-lasting, these are the most commonly seen shingles, used throughout the US.
• Modified Asphalt Composition Shingles – Think of these as the beefed-up version of the asphalt composition shingle. With added synthetic rubber, they are more flexible, durable, crack and impact resistant, and they resist ultraviolet light more effectively (which means a longer life).
• Wood Shakes or Shingles – Typically made from western red cedar, wood shingles were very popular before the 1980′s. However, due to poor fire resistance, most homeowners have replaced them and no longer consider them as an option. And, even when homeowners consider them an option, many cities and insurance companies do not.
• Metal Roofs – With a variety of finishes, colors and styles, metal roofing materials are a long-lasting alternative that have come a long way in terms of looks with designs to simulate shingles, slate and tile. Metal roofs are more expensive, but can be expected to last until the sun supernovas (OK, maybe not that long).
• Concrete Tiles – If you’re looking for high fire and wind resistance, tile roofs are a great solution. Designs vary and include simulated wood, slate and clay tiles. However, because of their weight, additional structural support may be necessary. Consult your contractor. Some manufacturers now offer lightweight tiles that require no additional reinforcement.
• Built-Up Roofs – These are often found on homes with flat (or near flat) roofs as well as for “roof decks.” Water pooling and leaks are a major concern as grading for proper run-off can be tricky. (It’s not a question of if your flat roof will leak, it’s a question of when.) Built-up roofs come in two basic types: asphalt and coal tar; with three basic components: the waterproofer, the reinforcer, and surface component.
• Single-Ply/Sheet-Applied Membrane – Also intended for flat roofs, several companies now offer a single-ply or membrane type of roofing material made from plastic, rubber or modified asphalt. With fewer seams, leaks are less of a concern, but these are fairly new and plenty expensive.
• Specialty Roofs – Providing a unique look and added beauty, these are typically the most expensive type of roofing materials, including slate, wood-fiber cement and a host of exciting new recycled materials.

Permits. New roofs typically require a permit from your city’s building department, but are usually exempt from what is called design review (a forum where your neighbors get to carp about your home improvement ambitions). If your new roof is higher than it was, then design review is very likely to enter the picture… because your new roof is more likely to enter your neighbor’s picture (view, that is).

Feeling motivated? Find a TOP rated local Roofing Pro here, today!

Where roofs are concerned cities will mainly have a say about fire-resistance and pitch. The latter has to do with the hazards associated with snow and ice build-up. Interestingly, the city may mandate a steeper roof that, you guessed it, nabs a bit of your neighbor’s view and forces a hearing where you’re called everything from a “callous, neo-industrial view hog” to epithets far too brutal to write about in the kind, gentle and always tasteful Done Right Directory. Oh, cruel irony when the building department mandates a change that lands you in design review. But we’ve seen it many times.

By the way, if you’re changing the pitch of your roof, don’t have a roofer do the plans. Hire an architect. Remember roof rule one: Do it right from the start and your roof is something you’ll think about once every 20 to 25 years. Do it wrong, and it will become your expensive pet albatross.

Done Right Tip: Big roof work is big time noisy and often smelly. (“I love the smell of tar in the morning.”) Get the neighbors in the loop even if design review is not required. Let them know when the work is beginning and how long they can expect it to go on. Give them a break on weekends and respect your cities “quiet time” laws. (No you can’t break out the flood-lights and keep the roofers going through the night.)

During the Project

Once you’ve selected a contractor and made all the necessary decisions about which roofing materials you want, it’s time for construction to begin. Well, it’s more like destruction. Before your new roof can be installed, your old one needs to come off. This step is called “tear-off.” It’s during this time that your contractor may discover problems that were long covered by your old roof; water and termite damage, structural shortcomings and flashing issues, to name just a few. And while these types of things are never welcomed, it’s important to realize that your contractor has no way of knowing about these things until they’re exposed. So it’s OK to brood for about 15 seconds, but then it’s time to work through the problem. You – and we – spent a lot of time selecting your roofing contractor. At crunch time you’re a team.

The basic steps of re-roofing are as follows:

• Tear-off of existing roofing
• New plywood sheeting (if necessary) is placed on open roof
• Asphalt paper or other moisture barrier is placed above plywood sub-surface
• Flashing is installed around roof perimeter and vent pipes (this is perhaps the most important, yet disrespected phase of roofing…get your flashing Done Right and leaks will seldom haunt you)
• Shingles/Tiles are installed

Typically, the whole process should take anywhere from a week to 10 days. Ask your contractor for a timeline before the project starts.

Done Right Tip: If there’s a chance of rain during your re-roofing project, ask your contractor to explain his policies regarding covering or placing a tarp over an exposed roof. You don’t want the rain to fly before finding out.

After the Project

Now that you have a new roof, there are a few ways to keep it looking great – but more importantly, to keep it from leaking!

• If you notice any damaged or missing roofing materials, contact your roofing contractor immediately to prevent further damage;
• Limit walking on the roof to avoid damage, which can lead to leaks;
• Keep trees trimmed to avoid contact with roofing materials (think of them as the termite superhighway);
• Keep your roof free of debris where mold and moisture can lead to damage.

Remember, a properly installed and maintained roof can last for up to 25 years. That’s 175 dog years; or, 3 times longer than the average US marriage (but not yours); or, just about when your kids will stop asking you for money. Oh, and it’s 5 years shy of having your mortgage paid. It’s good to know some things are close to forever.

Feeling motivated? Find a TOP rated local Roofing Pro here, today!