Archive for January, 2010

How to properly screen a Home Improvement Contractor

Let’s be frank, hiring a home improvement contractor can scary… Chances are you cannot turn off the thought of theft or various other types of discerning scenarios from looping in the back of your head.

Here are a few tips that will allow you to properly screen a contractor before you let them jump into your home remodeling investment…

  1. State Business Registration: Verify they are a legitimate licensed business in your state. Typically you can check their business status along with any  types of default’s they might have with the State. If their not registered, this is a good indication their not in business for your best efforts. Colorado home owners can search the Colorado Secretary of State Records Search here.
  2. Verify contractor licensing: Most contractors who are required to work with HVAC Systems, Electrical Wiring or General Project Management are required to carry a state minimum general liability insurance along with the proper licensing. Prior to hiring any outside contractor or contractors, make sure they carry the proper licensing and/or insurance.
  3. Check them out on MySpace.com or Facebook: You might find helpful information to help you make an informed and educated decision. Discover who your working with, really is.

When all else fails, or you just don’t have the time to perform the research yourself – you can find a fully qualified, trusted and guaranteed home improvement contractor at DoneRight.com.

Please note that many Service Providers listed in the Done Right Directory (in its various forms online and in print) do not display the Done Right Guarantee logo. This does not mean that they are sub-par. Rest assured, all Service Providers listed in the Done Right Directory have been checked and re-checked and checked again. But it does mean that the “un-guaranteed” Service Providers are either:

  1. In a “probationary period” where we are gathering more feedback from so-called Super Customers (picky trade pros like Realtors, civil engineers and home inspectors) before we let them display the Done Right Guarantee logo; or,
  2. They offer services in categories where a straightforward, meaningful consumer guarantee is difficult to make. Examples of such categories include, but are not limited to, Realtors, home appraisers and mortgage lenders.

In plain English, the Done Right Guarantee ensures that the work you asked the Done Right Service Providers to do was, in fact, done right – done the way you and the Service Provider agreed it should be done. If the work you contracted for was not done right, we’ll try to facilitate a good outcome for you and the Service Provider (which might include a return visit by the Service Provider), and if we can’t do that, we’ll either find and pay for another Service Provider to do the work right or, at our option, reimburse you up to $1,000 for money you paid the Service Provider for work that was not done right. Having work not done right can be aggravating and waste your time, which is why we try to weed out the “bad apples,” but the Done Right Guarantee does not cover such unfortunate inconveniences. The Done Right Guarantee also does not cover any expenses other than what you paid to the Service Provider.

Finding the right Roofing Contractor

Chances are that if you’re looking for a roofing contractor, you’ve got a leak and you’re not in a good mood. But look on the bright side – no one expects you to leap onto the roof, risking life and limb to remedy the problem (because the problem is not a tiny hole that can be sealed with a little duct tape). Job one is to stay inside and protect the interior – move furniture, get out that red bucket and grandma’s soup tureen – you know the drill. Job two: call a Done Right! roofing contractors before the “drip, drip, drip” drives you positively batty.

A roof that lasts is all about how it was installed. If it’s Done Right from the get-go, you shouldn’t need to worry about leaks for years to come. If not, patch jobs can slow the clock. So, here are the high hard ones for solving your “repair or replace” dilemma:

  • A roof should last 15-25 years (varies based on material/climate). If your roof is relatively young, chances are you’re in the market for “fix-it.”
  • Don’t assume the leak is originating from a popped out shingle or two. Metal flashing wears out before most roofs, so chances are flashing is the culprit.
  • Do you have an attic? If so, it could be improperly ventilated and is “sweating”, or generating condensation. Drilling some holes in eaves, adding a layer of bitchethane (adhesive waterproofing material) are two options for remedying this common – and commonly missed – problem.
  • Assess the quality of your shingles. If they break or crack when pressed, they’re history – but, can be easily replaced. In fact, just like driving with 20% worn brakes, a weathered roof can be just as effective. But once your roof dips below the 20-25% of remaining-life mark, a new one is the smart choice.

Before the Project

There are several factors to consider when you’re in the market for a new roof:

  • What types of elements will your roof be subjected to? Hail, high-heat, wind, fire?
  • What type of roofing materials do you prefer? What looks good?
  • What type of warranty are you looking for?
  • What’s your budget?

While these seem like different issues, they’re all closely related when it comes to replacing your roof. The elements your roof is subjected to dictate the type of roofing materials that are best. But, of course, your budget comes into play too. Then there’s how it all looks. And, how long you’ll be in the house. The roof decision is hardly a no-brainer. So, grab some coffee and read on.

The Big Picture on Materials. Where roofing materials are concerned, the three common criteria used to decide what you need are impact, wind and fire resistance (similar, but not to be confused with the 70′s R&B legends Earth, Wind and Fire). Depending on the location of your home, or any special requirements, knowing a little about all three will help you choose the right roofing materials:

  • Impact Resistance – Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) designed a testing standard to evaluate impact resistance of roofing material against hazards like hail. Materials tested using the UL scale receive a Class 1, 2, 3 or 4 impact-resistance rating. Class 4 provides the greatest impact resistance and is the class of choice anywhere hail is compared to fruit or balls used in sports.
  • Wind Resistance – Extreme winds can cause damage to your roof, bending asphalt shingles or completely blowing wood or asphalt shingles off. Once that happens water can penetrate, catapulting the problem from bad to worse. But where wind is concerned it’s more than just the material that matters. It’s how the materials are fastened. For example, the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturer Association (ARMA) recommends using nails instead of staples when securing asphalt roofing for maximum durability in wind. In addition, hammers are preferred over nail guns, as they tend to give the nail a snugger fit. There are similar guidelines for shingles and even tile. A good roofer will know them.
  • Fire Resistance – Fire rating is of particular concern if your home is located in a rustic setting near lots of brush or trees (known in the fire trade as fuel). Roofing materials are fire rated as follows:
  1. Class A: Effective against severe fire exposure
  2. Class B: Effective against moderate fire exposure
  3. Class C: Effective against light fire exposure
  4. Non-rated: The roofing material either was not tested or failed one of the tests

Your local building authority may require that a certain class of material be used in your area, so make sure your contractor checks before work begins.

Feeling motivated? Find a TOP rated local Roofing Pro here, today!

Done Right Tip: In areas where fires are a concern, insurance companies most often offer discounts for choosing a higher rated material. So, making a more expensive choice today may actually be cheaper in the long run.

Types of Roofing Materials. The type of roofing materials you use will depend upon many different factors, including budget, aesthetics, municipal codes and your home’s construction. A brief tour of the most common materials follows:

  • Asphalt Composition Shingles – Inexpensive and long-lasting, these are the most commonly seen shingles, used throughout the US.
  • Modified Asphalt Composition Shingles – Think of these as the beefed-up version of the asphalt composition shingle. With added synthetic rubber, they are more flexible, durable, crack and impact resistant, and they resist ultraviolet light more effectively (which means a longer life).
  • Wood Shakes or Shingles – Typically made from western red cedar, wood shingles were very popular before the 1980′s. However, due to poor fire resistance, most homeowners have replaced them and no longer consider them as an option. And, even when homeowners consider them an option, many cities and insurance companies do not.
  • Metal Roofs – With a variety of finishes, colors and styles, metal roofing materials are a long-lasting alternative that have come a long way in terms of looks with designs to simulate shingles, slate and tile. Metal roofs are more expensive, but can be expected to last until the sun supernovas (OK, maybe not that long).
  • Concrete Tiles – If you’re looking for high fire and wind resistance, tile roofs are a great solution. Designs vary and include simulated wood, slate and clay tiles. However, because of their weight, additional structural support may be necessary. Consult your contractor. Some manufacturers now offer lightweight tiles that require no additional reinforcement.
  • Built-Up Roofs – These are often found on homes with flat (or near flat) roofs as well as for “roof decks.” Water pooling and leaks are a major concern as grading for proper run-off can be tricky. (It’s not a question of if your flat roof will leak, it’s a question of when.) Built-up roofs come in two basic types: asphalt and coal tar; with three basic components: the waterproofer, the reinforcer, and surface component.
  • Single-Ply/Sheet-Applied Membrane – Also intended for flat roofs, several companies now offer a single-ply or membrane type of roofing material made from plastic, rubber or modified asphalt. With fewer seams, leaks are less of a concern, but these are fairly new and plenty expensive.
  • Specialty Roofs – Providing a unique look and added beauty, these are typically the most expensive type of roofing materials, including slate, wood-fiber cement and a host of exciting new recycled materials.

Permits. New roofs typically require a permit from your city’s building department, but are usually exempt from what is called design review (a forum where your neighbors get to carp about your home improvement ambitions). If your new roof is higher than it was, then design review is very likely to enter the picture… because your new roof is more likely to enter your neighbor’s picture (view, that is).

Feeling motivated? Find a TOP rated local Roofing Pro here, today!

Where roofs are concerned cities will mainly have a say about fire-resistance and pitch. The latter has to do with the hazards associated with snow and ice build-up. Interestingly, the city may mandate a steeper roof that, you guessed it, nabs a bit of your neighbor’s view and forces a hearing where you’re called everything from a “callous, neo-industrial view hog” to epithets far too brutal to write about in the kind, gentle and always tasteful Done Right Directory. Oh, cruel irony when the building department mandates a change that lands you in design review. But we’ve seen it many times.

By the way, if you’re changing the pitch of your roof, don’t have a roofer do the plans. Hire an architect. Remember roof rule one: Do it right from the start and your roof is something you’ll think about once every 20 to 25 years. Do it wrong, and it will become your expensive pet albatross.

Done Right Tip: Big roof work is big time noisy and often smelly. (“I love the smell of tar in the morning.”) Get the neighbors in the loop even if design review is not required. Let them know when the work is beginning and how long they can expect it to go on. Give them a break on weekends and respect your cities “quiet time” laws. (No you can’t break out the flood-lights and keep the roofers going through the night.)

During the Project

Once you’ve selected a contractor and made all the necessary decisions about which roofing materials you want, it’s time for construction to begin. Well, it’s more like destruction. Before your new roof can be installed, your old one needs to come off. This step is called “tear-off.” It’s during this time that your contractor may discover problems that were long covered by your old roof; water and termite damage, structural shortcomings and flashing issues, to name just a few. And while these types of things are never welcomed, it’s important to realize that your contractor has no way of knowing about these things until they’re exposed. So it’s OK to brood for about 15 seconds, but then it’s time to work through the problem. You – and we – spent a lot of time selecting your roofing contractor. At crunch time you’re a team.

The basic steps of re-roofing are as follows:

  • Tear-off of existing roofing
  • New plywood sheeting (if necessary) is placed on open roof
  • Asphalt paper or other moisture barrier is placed above plywood sub-surface
  • Flashing is installed around roof perimeter and vent pipes (this is perhaps the most important, yet disrespected phase of roofing…get your flashing Done Right and leaks will seldom haunt you)
  • Shingles/Tiles are installed

Typically, the whole process should take anywhere from a week to 10 days. Ask your contractor for a timeline before the project starts.

Done Right Tip: If there’s a chance of rain during your re-roofing project, ask your contractor to explain his policies regarding covering or placing a tarp over an exposed roof. You don’t want the rain to fly before finding out.

After the Project

Now that you have a new roof, there are a few ways to keep it looking great – but more importantly, to keep it from leaking!

  • If you notice any damaged or missing roofing materials, contact your roofing contractor immediately to prevent further damage;
  • Limit walking on the roof to avoid damage, which can lead to leaks;
  • Keep trees trimmed to avoid contact with roofing materials (think of them as the termite superhighway);
  • Keep your roof free of debris where mold and moisture can lead to damage.

Remember, a properly installed and maintained roof can last for up to 25 years. That’s 175 dog years; or, 3 times longer than the average US marriage (but not yours); or, just about when your kids will stop asking you for money. Oh, and it’s 5 years shy of having your mortgage paid. It’s good to know some things are close to forever.

Feeling motivated? Find a TOP rated local Roofing Pro here, today!

Decks Done Right!

You know you want a deck, but where do you start? Not at the lumberyard, do-it-yourselfers. The first step starts at home, and in most cases, with a contractor. Your deck – if Done Right! – will involve framers, a plumber, an electrician, possibly a roofer and maybe even an architect. A contractor can manage a deck from assessment and design through build – including the management of all subs. So, consider the following before grabbing a beer and tool belt. A deck Done Right is not a job for the faint-of-heart.

Before the Project

How are you going to use it? The intended use of your deck is the most important consideration. Will it be used for entertaining? Do you want built-in seating? Will you need a deck cover or awning? Are you planning on plants or planter boxes? How will existing landscaping be affected? Where will your barbeque go and what kind will it be? And how will you see at night? (You may laugh, but lighting is one of the most overlooked steps by deck-do-it-yourselfers.) Plus, if you live where the nights are chilly do you want a space heater or a groovy outdoor fireplace?

Feeling inspired? Find a “Guaranteed” Deck Contractor here!

Basic design. The size and shape of your backyard most likely influences this decision, but you may be thinking about a deck off the master bedroom or above the garage. If it’s the latter, know that any deck with living space underneath (and, yes, garages are considered living space) must adhere to strict fire safety regulations that will, in many ways, drive both your design and your choice of materials. And though a deck seems far different than a roof in terms of its ability to shed water, it’s not. Insurance companies will tell you that far too many water damage problems are due to decks that don’t properly drain.

Are there any zoning or code issues? In most communities, homeowner’s associations (HOA) and/or municipal building departments will have some sort of regulations pertaining to the construction of decks. Most strict are the rules and regulations regarding safety. For example, your railings will have very specific height and width requirements. The typical rule of thumb is around 3′ for height and 4″ between slats (or, no bigger than a baby’s head). But if your pet Chihuahua can shoot between the 4″ slats then consider a tighter design, or even clear Plexiglass. HOAs and city building codes may also dictate what types of materials can be used and where a deck can be built in relation to your home, the property line and your neighbor’s home. Don’t think for a minute that decks escape the scrutiny of design review boards – if you live in an area where views are an integral part of home values, fully expect your neighbors to pipe up about what you think is “just a little old” deck. Lastly, your local building department may require permits and inspections. If you don’t pull permits for your deck it can really come to haunt you when you go to sell your home.

Feeling inspired? Find a “Guaranteed” Deck Contractor here!

Decks aren’t just about wood anymore. Termites have seen to that. Trex – and other products like it – are an increasingly popular decking material constructed of recycled wood and plastic, and although it may not look exactly like wood, the trade-off is compelling: NO MORE TERMITES and a big break for old-growth trees. Other popular tree-saving options are tile, concrete and even aluminum. All come with varying price tags, maintenance and safety issues so do your research. Better yet, ask your Done Right contractor.

During the Project

Permits. Once you have an approved design plan, it’s time for your contractor to begin work. In most cases, this will begin with the pulling of permits. You can also expect periodic inspections by your local building department. This stage of the project takes more time than you think. You may not hear the hammers a-hammerin’ or the saws a-sawin’ yet, but in today’s world filing papers and appeasing city officials is important stuff that is critical to your project and the value it ultimately adds to your life and your home.

It is important to note that while your contractor will provide the most accurate job estimate possible, unforeseen problems are bound to arise. So, while extra expenses are never welcomed, you have to expect them. You’ve heard of Murphy and his law…well, construction is where Murphy reigns supreme. It’s important to remember your contractor wants you to be happy. So, if he or she discovers a utility line in the exact location where a support post is supposed to go, know this is one of those unforeseen events. Being informed and prepared and flexible makes you a better customer and if anything in construction is certain it’s this: better customers get better work.

The Build. Here’s a basic idea of how the project will proceed after you’ve pulled all permits and finalized the plans with your contractor:

  • Site Preparation. If your deck is being built over grass, the turf will be cleared to expose bare soil. If there is concrete below, holes may be cut out for the support posts, which need to be sunk. This is the foundation for your new deck. Your contractor may also place a ledger board on the side of your house. This will act as the anchor point for your deck. From here, all the floor joists and overhead beams will be attached. In some cases, this may require the removing of siding. Be prepared for an unappealing scar that will go away as the work progresses.
  • Construction. Once the support posts are sunk and secured in the ground, it’s time for your deck to take shape. Floor joists and/or overhead beams will be attached to the ledger board. These will be used to attach decking (what you walk on) or any overhead slats. Simultaneously, a plumber will come out and plumb for water (a must-have for plant boxes/drainage) and a gas line for your barbeque, if you so choose. If you have any living space beneath the proposed deck you will require a layer of waterproofing material – often applied by a roofer – prior to setting tile, wood, or whichever surface material you choose. And, of course, the services of an electrician will be required for wiring your new lighting.
  • The Finishing Touches. Once the basic structure of your deck is complete, the last step is to add any additional architectural detail: fancy railings, flower boxes, a potting station, a built-in barbeque. And, decks can be painted, stained, treated with clear sealants or other finishes, depending on the material. Remember to discuss these items with your contractor before work begins so they can be built into the original design and estimate. (“Oh, that bid didn’t include sealing the deck,” are words you don’t want to hear.)

After the Project

Your contractor will tell you how important it is to follow guidelines to extend the life of your deck. All of you “I-wanted-to-do-more-of-it-myself-ers” should be pleased to know that with a deck the work never really ends: get into a yearly ritual of power cleaning sanding, staining, painting and sealing. And a good sweeping and hosing off can add years to your deck’s life. But most of all enjoy your deck. It’s a great place for you and your family to build a lifetime of memories.

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